Tuesday, October 23, 2012

We interrupt this blog for... Tybee Island

from Mermaid Cottages
We drove down from our house in Northern Ontario to spend 4 days on Tybee Island, Georgia! We rented a Mermaid Cottage called "Made in the Shade."

A fabulous place... I'll blog about it later, but for now, I'm enjoying the sun and sand.

Friday, October 19, 2012

My Workshop - Part 6 - Paint and casings

My shop is divided into a front room that will be used for assembly and finishing and the larger workshop part at the back. Here’s a rough sketch of the layout:

Early in 2010 I painted all the OSB walls with 2 coats of Kilz original primer, this is the side wall:

The front room with insulation only:

and with the OSB:
I put two coats of primer on and then painted with white paint because I could still slightly see lines from the OSB through only one coat of primer:


The front window and door badly needed some casing:


First I made the window jambs, the bottom extends out and makes a sill: 
(these aren’t curved, it’s just poor photography on my part)


The casing is pine, covered with many coats of polyurethane:


The door has a matching casing style:


It looks so much nicer this way. The side windows have a matching casing style which I completed this year and already blogged about here with more detailed photos of each step.

A few more posts on the workshop and I'll be up to date...






Tuesday, October 16, 2012

My Workshop - Part 5 - Insulating and starting to paint

At this point, the building was up, it was winter (Nov. 2008) and time to insulate. Batts were placed in the attic walls between the studs at the end walls. Also we placed insulation between the ceiling joists, leaving an airspace at the top.



Here’s a view of the east side wall of my workshop before it was insulated:



Insulation started, this is the front of my workshop, you can see the front door and window and the electrical panel in the corner:



Excuse the mess, but here’s the stairs at the back of my workshop: 

In June of 2009, I got started on the painting on the garage side before all the OSB was up on my workshop side. I used Kilz Original and put on two coats. This was hard to do because you really have to push hard on the roller to get it in all the recesses in the OSB and my hand pain problem was not compatible with all that roller work. Anyway, I did do it, here is the back wall of the garage and the dividing wall with one coat:






I started moving my tools into the shop so I could work on some things while it was still being finished off.
At this point we stopped working on the garage and had to make wood sheds to hold the wood that would heat the garage/workshop and the house for the winter. The previous heating season we piled wood beside the outdoor furnace under tarps, which was not so much fun in -30C weather. We designed a shed for each side of the furnace that would each hold about 20 face cords.


Here they are finished with the steel roof on top and partially loaded:




Then in Sept. (2009) my husband put up the soffit and fascia around the outside of the garage/workshop so that no more animals or birds could get into the eaves, as we had birds nesting there in the spring:





... still more to come...
See WORKSHOP PART 6 here



Sunday, October 14, 2012

My Workshop - Part 4 - The attic and roof


Now where were we?  (I am blogging about our build, this is from Sept. 2008, so four years ago)
Oh yes… we have to start the upper floor, I am going to call it the attic.
Let me remind you that my husband did all of this part completely on his own. I was recovering from carpal tunnel surgery and unable to carry anything or hammer or do much at all other than supervise! There were no stairs yet, so all the pieces had to be pulled up from the front or brought up on a ladder. It was a lot of heavy work for one person and a heck of a lot of pieces.
He started by making the upper front wall in two pieces:

He then made, similarly the back wall and put up a roof ridge and two 4’ tall knee walls.

Rafters then had to be placed that met the ridge and were notched to be rested on the knee walls and again on the top edge of the side walls.

It was Sept. 2008 at this point and the next step was putting plywood on the roof. Of course all of this plywood (to cover a garage of 40’ x 40’) had to be lifted up through the attic and most of it was nailed from the inside and reaching out. 

We put up the garage door and got a truck load of fine gravel to keep the front area smooth and neat for the upcoming winter season.

Because I thought it was dangerous for my husband to do and we were running out of time before the cold weather struck, we hired a local roofer to put up the steel roof:

At some point during this time it was my job to make the stairs. They lead up to the attic from the back of my workshop and across the back wall. Since I am the chief photographer, somehow I didn’t take shots of the making of these stairs as I went, I’m not sure why but I wish I had them. It was my first attempt and turned out really well after all my calculations. This is all I could find from that time:
(This is my side of the project, 40' deep and 20' wide - all for my workshop!)

Hopefully I'm not boring you, more to come tomorrow!

You can see WORKSHOP PART 5 here






Wednesday, October 10, 2012

My Workshop - Part 3 - Ceiling joists and finishing the outside


This is a continuation of my workshop/garage build from 4 years ago.

In order to be able to have a 40’ building without interior walls other than one right down the middle, we needed to have joists that would carry across the width of the building and give us room above for storage. Regular trusses don’t allow for much empty space for storage, so we had joists designed with our particular needs taken into account.
The joists are I beam style, 40’ long and sixteen inches deep. They needed to be placed 16” OC, so that meant an order of 30 plus rim board, a 1” thick 16” deep board that runs around the outside of the joists.
We rented a backhoe and used the front bucket to first move the joists as close as possible to the front of the garage and then to raise each joist up to balance on the framing.

The joists which were initially laid down flat, were pushed to the back to keep them out of the way of the other joists that were stood up and attached one at a time, working from the front to the back.
Plywood on first joists to make a platform and to give my husband a place to stand on to get the rest of the joists into position:

The backhoe was then used to lift plywood up on top of the joists and this was used as a floor for the upstairs loft area:

It was time for aspenite to go on the outside of all the framing:

The next step was to put some windows and doors in and cover the outer aspenite with typar:

To be continued...
You can see WORKSHOP PART 4 here


Tuesday, October 9, 2012

SCORE - and free!

Pallet Love:


Saturday, October 6, 2012

HAPPY THANKSGIVING to my Canadian friends


Thanks to Julie J at The Old Design Shop for the free graphic from 1919

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

My Workshop - Part 2 - The floor, blocks and starting the framing

You can see part 1 of my Workshop here

My husband and I did almost all the work in building the new shop but we did hire a group of men to pour and smooth the new floor.
Here’s the pump truck starting the pour in the north east corner:

Here's a close up of the cement going in over the infloor tubing and mesh:

It was July 2008 and since our foundation was all in, we were on to the blocks and then the framing. Our plans called for one row of blocks sitting on the foundation.Blocks were not put at the doorways at the front and side of the building and also where the large garage door would be.



2” thick styrofoam had to be placed vertically around the whole perimeter of the building. We have cold winters and this is to hopefully keep the heat in from the in-floor heating system. There is a middle dividing wall with an inner door between the garage (his) and workshop (mine) which will allow wood, tools and finished furniture to be transported through the large garage door and into the workshop.
Here you can see the side of the garage with the styrofoam in place and the opening for the side door:

Finally time to frame the walls! We used 2×6 lumber and 8’ foot lengths for the studs that are 16” OC. These are placed on a 2×6 plate and with two 2×6’s for the top plate. Of course this sits on top of the blocks and so it makes the wall height about 9’. We put the walls up in sections and used the top 2×6 to run across sections to hold them together. We did have anchor bolts that came up from the foundation, through the holes in the blocks and then up through the plate.
This photo shows the walls going up starting with the east wall which is for my workshop. There will be a door at the front and three windows along the side, so framing was done to leave the space for these:


My workshop will have an assembly room in the front that is about 10’ deep x 20’ wide (the width of the workshop), to divide my section up into two rooms. That dividing wall will be added later, but here is the view from my front door:



The framing was finished by the end of July 2008, including the opening for a 16’ garage door:

Unfortunately, at this point, I had to have carpal tunnel surgery and was not much help to my husband for the next few months of construction, other than supervising :) It’s amazing to think all the work he did on this big project while still having a full-time job. Now if we (he) can just finish before the snow flies!

Stay tuned for more!  See WORKSHOP PART 3 here


Monday, October 1, 2012

My Workshop - Part 1 - The design and starting out



I have blogged about my workshop at other places, including a blog I have at a woodworking forum, but I really haven't talked too much about it here.

My husband wanted a garage for car storage and working on cars and I wanted a workshop for woodworking. We decided on a 40’ x 40’ building with one half for him and one half for me. It was my job to sketch up a rough version of what the building would look like. The plans were drawn by both of us and an architect was needed, according to the by-laws in our township, to design the floor system only. All the building was done by us except the laying of the cement floor.




We live on 8 acres of land and chose a spot we could clear of trees and debris that was conveniently close enough to the house and the driveway. In September of 2007 my husband rented a backhoe and began clearing the spot. It was full of trees he had to remove, as well as huge boulders and a lot of tree roots and branches. Here it is cleared:

We put weeping tiles on top of this, to allow for draining and then it took 20 loads of gravel to fill in the spot enough to bring it up to level.


The last photo was from Sept. 16, 2007. We waited over the winter for the snow to come and go so that it would settle enough for us to begin building in the spring of 2008.

In May 2008, after a long winter and very wet early spring which delayed construction, we dug the trenches for the forms and the footings., then Styrospan had to be laid under the cement foundation.


We decided to heat the whole garage and shop floor with in floor heating which would be heated with the use of an outdoor wood stove. Since our home was already using hot water heating, the house was piped and ready to be switched over from the oil-fed system to the new wood stove.
Rebar was needed around the perimeter and up the middle trench. Wire mesh was put over the whole area to enable us to use it to attach the piping that would heat the floor.
In June 2008 it was time to start getting the in-floor piping and the electricity hook-ups into the foundation before the cement could be poured.
The wood stove that will heat the new workshop as well as our house will be placed in between the two buildings. It will sit at the side of the driveway approximately 50 feet north of the house and 75 feet south of the workshop. Since our hookups will need to be at the farthest side of the house, a trench needs to be dug about 75-100 feet each way from the wood stove location. This trench will house the piping that runs the hot water as well as electric wire from the house to the shop and another wire from the house to power the stove’s electrical needs.
This is the piping that takes the hot water and the corregated piping that holds the wire to supply power to the shop. The smooth 5” diameter pipe is insulated and carries two 1 1/4” diameter hot water pipes inside it (one takes the hot water to the workshop and the other returns it). So from the wood stove we have to send out the insulated piping two ways, north to the shop and south to the house. This is the trench towards the workshop, partially filled in:


All the piping had to be laid before the cement floor went in. There are six loops, three heat the garage and three heat the workshop. The piping is attached to the wire mesh grid with plastic ties.

Here is the piping coming out of the foundation area, ready for the concrete to be poured, after which point it will be connected to the manifolds, pump and control system.


The next step was getting the floor poured, I'll continue in my next post.
See WORKSHOP PART 2 here