Friday, March 15, 2013

Bunnies-on-a-stick


How about some bunnies-on-a-stick?



I found a bunny silhouette here at the Graphics Fairy and blew it up to a size that would work for me.  I cut one about 12 1/2" long out of rough faced pine that is 3/8" thick.

I used a dowel for the stick and a scrap piece of pine cut to 3 1/2" x 2" for the base. A hole was drilled into the base and the dowel glued into that.  I cut a flat spot on one side of the dowel and then glued it on the back of the bunny.  First I coated it the whole thing with amber shellac and then dry brushed white paint over it.





These bunnies stand about 11 1/2" high, but could be made in any size at all.






An easy to make, fun little accessory for spring, or anytime!

Everything I make is for sale, please check my For Sale page, or contact me.

Showing at the following blogs:
My Repurposed Life                                   Shabby Art Boutique
Homespun Happenings                               Old Red Barn
Too Much Time on my Hands                      The Graphics Fairy
Jennifer Rizzo                                            Three Mango Seeds
Elizabeth & Co.                                          Funky Junk Interiors

Thursday, March 14, 2013

Life is better at the cottage

We had more snow last night... the ground is still covered in too much snow.

So, I thought I'd show this sign I made not long ago:





Not that I have a cottage to go to, but I do live on the lake, so I'm not complaining except I wish it wasn't solid ice right now.

Everything I make is for sale, please check my For Sale page, or contact me.


Sharing at the following blogs:
Common Ground                         My Repurposed Life
House of Hepworths                    Homespun Happenings
Jennifer Rizzo                             Old Red Barn
Too Much Time on my Hands      Three Mango Seeds
Elizabeth & Co.

Friday, March 8, 2013

Making Interior Pine Doors - Part 8: hanging the doors

This is Part 8 of a series that starts here


Finally hanging the doors is the next step in this long process.

I stand my doors in the opening they will go in and put them on a flat scrap of wood, just enough to give the clearance under the door that I want. I use about 1/8" - 3/16" up off the floor.  Then I mark the top and bottom of the hinge recesses I've already cut out on the doors. I tape a hinge onto the door frame at the correct spot and trace around it with a pencil:


Then I carefully cut around the pencil marks, to a depth of about 1/16", with a sharp knife:


As I showed in the previous post, my router bit was set to the thickness of the hinge:


Then, I routered out the space by hand being very careful to stay inside the cut lines. I could have tried to clamp some type of stop blocks on the frame, as I did for the doors, but I didn't do that.

This was a little difficult to do the top hinges, since I had to stand on a chair, but anyway...


I was very careful and watched through the opening in the router base to see where I was:


I cleaned up the uneven spots and squared up the corners with a chisel and the hinge fits right in:


My dogs watched the process intently!


These are hinges with removable pins so I screwed each hinge side to the doors and the other side to the frames.  Then I lined them up and dropped the pins in. 

I have not finished the door rails and stiles with polyurethane yet, just the panels and the door frames, so the colour is different, but here's the doorway between my shop and my front room:


and here is the doorway between my shop and my husband's garage:


Now I need to make some door stops, the narrow strips on the door frame that doors butt up against when closed.  Also I have to cut the windows and make strips to hold them in.  


Sharing at the following blogs:

Monday, March 4, 2013

Making Interior Pine Doors - Part 7: hinging the doors

This is Part 7 of a series that starts here

Time to put hinges on the doors.

I'm going to use 3 hinges per door, so I mark with pencil by tracing around where they will sit right on the door edge.  I then use a sharp knife and cut the outline out to no more than a depth of 1/16".




Then I get my hinge and set it on the base of my trim router which has a straight bit in it.  The cutting depth of the bit (the amount protruding out of the base) is set as the thickness of the hinge, which in my case is about 1/16".  I don't measure it, I put the hinge there and then adjust by feel until the end of the bit is even with the face of the hinge.
(Always do these adjustments with the router unplugged)




Next, measure the distance (A) from the edge of the router bit to the side of the router base:


Then I clamp scrap wood to the edge of the door so that there is a "fence" exactly at the distance A away from the marked line of where the hinge will sit.  As you can see here, there are two pieces of wood even with the door's wood, to make the distance A.  Then there is another piece of MDF clamped higher up so that it makes an edge for the base of the router to ride against.


 This photo will show how the router will ride against the fence to clean out the hinge's recessed spot. Having this fence will stop the router from making the recess for the hinge too wide.


In the same manner I also clamp a stop block on the left side of where the hinge will go. You can also put one on the right side, I don't because my router base has an uneven back side so it doesn't ride neatly against wood.


Here you can see how the router bit will cut right along the left pencil line and then along the top line. You can do this without stops, but they make it pretty fool proof.


This shows the cut.  After doing this I would go back and remove the rest of the space and then use a chisel to get into the corners:

Here is the hinge fitting perfectly in it's spot:

You can also buy hinge jigs for hinging doors, where the jig has a preset opening for the hinge and you just ride inside that with your router.  I find those limiting, but if I was a professional door hanger and doing many hinge recesses of the same size, I'd buy or make a more permanent jig.

Okay, now since I have 2 door openings with 2 doors each and three hinges per door that means I need to install 12 hinges on my doors!

In the next post I'll (finally) hang the doors.